By KENS apothecary
Posted in Beauty Tips
According to perfumer Frédéric Malle, “Roses is to perfumery what the nude is to drawing”. Whether pure, futuristic, sophisticated or even synthetic, each perfumer has his or her own interpretation of this flower.
Here, Frédéric Malle showcases the wealth of styles of the artists he publishes and proposes four roses with strong personalities:
NEW LAUNCH - ROSE TONNERRE: THE DARKEST OF ROSES
Frédéric Malle’s beloved classic, Rose Tonnerre is part of an exotic garden of exquisite rose scents at night: in the foreground, intoxicating, sparkling, sweet and fresh all at once, it reveals deep and warm facets. Dark and enigmatic, subtly gothic.
Within the context of this personal work, Édouard Fléchier showed Frédéric Malle a new base, a kind of olfactive sketch, reproducing the smell of a “Perigord’s truffle”. This assemblage of dark notes, for the most part woody and animal, was destined to masculine perfumery, but the two friends had the idea – a priori paradoxical- to marry it to the feminine scent par excellence: the rose.
The idea was to take advantage of the semi earthly, semi animal truffle’s aspect to reinforce the “garden” side of the flower, and by doing that creating a link between the petal and the skin scent.
All in all, this composition obeys to the precept that a flower alone is only a scent and that a perfume should emanates from the person who wears it.
PORTRAIT OF A LADY: ROSE OVERDOSE
The original sketch was ambitious: to reinvent the genus of amber perfume. From the heart of a flamboyant masculine perfume, géranium pour monsieur is extracted as the basis of a sumptuous feminine perfume, like a flash of heat across the skin.
In the foreground, Dominique Ropion proposes a mixture that defies the limits of reasonableness, daring excess and covering the formula of opulence with an endless number of petals of Turkish roses – about 10 per cent, the equivalent of 400 flowers per bottle of 100 ml.
It is the most classic of ingredients, which, in such proportions, suddenly takes on unimaginable dimension, strength and character. Striking in its abundance of roses, the fragrance expresses its dramatic power through the contrasts of incense and sandalwood. A clove, blackcurrant and raspberry accord binds scent together to give this great perfume its final touch. It took Dominique Ropion and Frédéric Malle months to create this fragrance.
Mysterious and refined, Portrait of a Lady is an ode, a song to universal beauty, the one shared indistinctly by all women and in which each expresses her own ideal.
ROSE & CUIR: THE CHIMERA ROSE
Inspired by the storied Mistral wind that blows through the South of France and embodies the irresistible elegance of a silent storm, Jean-Claude Ellena signs with Rose & Cuir a purified perfume to the extreme, built around very selected ingredients.
The fragrance opens with a crystalline rose: pure, streamlined, modern and uncompromising. A brilliant blackcurrant, followed by timut pepper and geranium bourbon extractions, creates the illusion. The airy and solar first feeling gradually reveals leather in its raw state, both elegant and mysterious.
This base is built around isobutyl quinoline, a forgotten molecule discovered at the turn of the 20th century and then popularised by the very daring perfumery of the 1950s.
LIPSTICK ROSE: THE GLAMOUROUS & POP ART ROSE
Lipstick Rose expresses an exacerbated vision of femininity. That lipstick smell is about the intimate moment when a star, in the hushed comfort of her dressing room, slides her stick over her upper lip.
Grapefruit and violet enhance the fragrance’s rose note, while iris, raspberry and rose, combined with vanilla and white musk, create a glamorised femininity in technicolour.
Ralf Schwieger, a young perfumer whose architectural writing and desire to create extraordinary products have seduced Frédéric Malle, has composed a fragrance that is somewhere between Hollywood glamour and pop art.
That spooky time of the year when everyone gets decked out in their finest costumes has come knockin...
Maison Francis Kurkdjian collection of unisex fragrances is composed of rare perfumes that unite man...
The perfect fusion of advanced natural alchemy and cosmetic science. A new generation of skincare,...